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Useful tips, helpful hints, and things worth knowing about wood heat.
Every so often we try to give folks some practical knowledge about the wood heat. We sure try to squeeze every bit of heat from every split and do so in the safest way possible, so hopefully my late night, sleep deprived ramblings will be of some help to you! Feel free to email and make any additions or corrections as you see fit.
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Not satisfying one of the most basic requirements of wood heat can lead to countless frustrations during the winter. It really doesn't matter what species or type of wood you have available. The one thing that matters most is whether the wood is dry. Indeed a lot of performance problems, such has lack of heat, dirty glass, sluggish starts, and lack of secondary combustion, are caused by poor fuel quality as opposed to problems with the system.
What is dry, or, seasoned wood? Very simply seasoned wood is wood that has been dried to a point where it is efficiently burned in a stove. Usually this is between 15% and 20% moisture. How long it takes for wood to dry to this point depends a lot on what species it is. Some species of Ash and Cherry can be ready to burn in a couple weeks whereas Oak and Elm may take a couple years.
Wood dries best when given the most sunshine and airflow possible. Stack it up off of the ground after it's been split making sure it gets plenty of sun and air. Stacking wood more than a couple rows deep will greatly hurt the ability of the wood away from the exterior of the pile to dry. Leave the pile uncovered until the fall when it's time to start burning.
Knowing a bit about and properly taking care of the fuel is a huge key to successful and enjoyable burning. A little extra work during the summer can make your winter much warmer! |
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Considering the time of year this may be a very important question to know the answer to right now. How much is a cord of wood and how do you make sure you get what you're paying for?
Simply put, a cord is a unit of measure. One cord is 128 cubic feet or in terms of wood that would be a pile 8 feet long, 4 feet wide, and 4 feet high, STACKED. If your wood is cut to 16 inches in length, that would mean three rows 8 feet long and 4 feet high.
It's important to remember this is measured with the wood normally stacked, not heaped in a pile - the difference can be significant.
Most firewood suppliers want to give you what you are paying for. They'll usually deliver slightly more than what you pay for to cover themselves. No one wants a bad reputation. If after you stack your wood you feel you've been shorted let the seller know. Most of the time they will deliver some wood to make up for it before you can hang up the phone. And, keep a record of who you purchase from. Stick with the folks who treat you well.
One more side note: If the wood hasn't been stacked and split for a year, it isn't seasoned. An honest seller will sell anything less as "semi-seasoned." |
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Why insulate your stainless liner?
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Flexible stainless chimney liners are great! They really are far and away superior products compared to traditional masonry liners and often perform better when properly installed. The cost for a typical liner installation averages to be around the $1,500 mark if professionally done and this can cause many homeowners to try to cut costs. One of the first things to get cut is the insulation. This cuts the cost of the materials as well as the labor to remove the old liner which can add up. The following is why we INSULATE EVERY LINER WE INSTALL!
The primary function of insulation is protecting the house structure from damage caused by a chimney fire - protection. There are performance benefits to insulating a liner but these are secondary to its intended purpose. Masonry chimneys are required by code, whether NFPA or IRC, to have an airpace around them with no combustbles abutting their structure which protects the structure in case of a chimney fire. Sadly, almost no chimneys fully satisfy this requirement so consequently a liner should be installed with an insulation system approved for "zero clearance" systems. This negates the airspace requirement and provides the protection needed.
Bottom line, the insulation is safer, it performs better, and it's code.
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Pellet Stoves and Their Requirements |
Happy belated new year!
Pellet stoves are wonderful appliances in my opinion. They're fairly easy to install and are a great alternative for those who don't want the work of a wood stove. There are a few things to remember before making the decision to purchase one, however.
First, they do require maintenance. Much like your wood stove/chimney, oil furnace, and so on, they require yearly service which should be performed by someone who knows how to do it correctly. Basic hand tools are required as is a good vacuum and good dextarity. These yearly services include:
- Cleaning both blower motors
- Cleaning and securing the venting system
- Anything else your manual says should be done on a yearly basis
In addition there are monthly and weekly chores such as cleaning the burn pot, vacuuming the empty hopper (important!), cleaning the heat exchangers, cleaning the glass, and so on. Your owner's manual is key here. It will tell you exactly what needs to be done and when and it should be followed very closely.
The second thing to remember about pellet stoves is that they are electrical applainces and will only work when there is power. Back in December 2008 many people in the NH area remember there was a major power outage. Some folks around here were without power for weeks due to the damage. While it is possible to have a battery back up for your pellet stove, a typical battery will last a mere few hours before being depleted. If your pellet stove is your sole source of heat, this won't bode well for you during a major event. Also, given that deep cycle batteries are required, be prepared to shell out close to $100 for the battery and another $150 or so for the inverter required.
Third, pellets themselves are subject to price fluxuations, much like heating oil. When oil rises, demand for pellets does also. How this may change in the future is uncertain. In the New England area pellet mills are literally springing up almost overnight and who knows how this will effect the supply and demand relationship here.
One more note about pellets I wanted to add is all pellets are not created equal. Different brands can vary in quality greatly, and yes, cheaper pellets do tend to have more quality issues. Find a brand you like and stick with it. I would be happy to make some recommendations.
Fourth and finally, the stoves themselves are mechanical systems which break down. Be sure you purchase from someone who can give you support and supply you with parts and service. Some of the box store stoves have good support from their manufacturers though the stores themselves do squat for you usually. And remember the old saying "You get what you pay for."
Stay warm folks!
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Choosing a new stove. Cats vs. Non-cats.
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With spring approaching and the burning season winding down, some folks are already starting to plan for next year. They're looking for firewood, making improvements, and searching for a new stove. If you find yourself in this latter category, or are just new to the wood burning world, there are a couple things to keep in mind when researching that big purchase of a new appliance. Welcome to EPA approved stoves!
The EPA has set standards regarding particulate emission which wood stoves must meet. This has forced manufacturers to build stoves which burn very cleanly - little to no smoke being emitted from the chimney. The unintended consequence of these standards has been a dramatic increase in the efficiency of the stove and the amount of heat you get out of your firewood. EPA stoves are much more efficient than their non-EPA counterparts, one average about 33%. That's significant!
Basically you'll find two different technologies which enable the modern stove to achieve this efficiency - catalytic and non-catalytic stoves. A catalytic stove simply is a stove which contains a catalytic combutstor. The unburned bits left from the burning of the wood react with a chemical coated honeycomb device which lowers the ignition temperature of the smoke and causes it to burn. This enables what's called "secondary burn" and gives some added efficiency to the stove as well as makes the exhaust much cleaner. Cat stoves tend to produce medium heat for a very loooooong time. They usually achieve longer burns.
A non-catalytic stove uses insulation and baffling to achieve the same effect. Smoke from the burning of the firewood is directed along the top of the firebox by a baffle. The smoke is heated by the fire below and hot fresh air is injected into the mix causing the superheated smoke to ignite, thus achieving your secondary burn. Non-cat stoves tend to be most efficient when burned with hotter, shorter fires. They will heat up your house quickly but usually do not achieve the burn times a cat stove will.
Between the two, which is more efficient is really a wash. A cat stove will initially be more efficient than a non-cat but because the catalytic combustors need to be replaced every several years, efficiency will wane with time.
So which should you choose? Well, it depends. Figure out the your heating needs and go from there. Rather than go nuts over the difference between cats and non-cats, look more at the quality of the stove and manufacturer. There are great stoves in both categories.
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Well, the snow is melting and it looks like New Hampshire might be emerging from the icy grip of winter. Though the temperature outside is warming, many people are not yet finished with their wood heat. These warmer temperatures we experience during the fall and spring (the shoulder season) can present some challenges to we who heat with wood. Often, building a fire in the stove makes the house very very warm. To combat this some are tempted to simply turn down the air control or damper down the fire and have a cooler fire. While this may seem to work, it results in a much dirtier (and less efficient) burn which dirties your chimney and wastes some of the energy in the wood.
Instead of a cooler fire, try a smaller hot fire. Keep the air control open and burn some smaller splits nice and hot. It will burn clean, heat the house up quick, and then die down before things get too warm. Simply repeat when the house gets cool again.
A clean chimney is a happy chimney.
Enjoy the weather!!
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Video Scanning - When and Why? |
Inasmuch as I would like to promote a new service we offer, I would also like to shed some light on when and why proper video scanning should be performed for those interested.
Video scanning involves using a camera unit and usually some sort of digital imaging technology to examine the interior of the chimney flue. A small camera is pushed up inside the flue and moved the entire length to check the integrity of each seam. It is really the only way to be sure your chimney is serviceable and free of cracks or gaps in the liner. The images are fed back to a viewing screen and are often recorded, and in our case these images are then used in a formal report which is prepared for the homeowner, buyer, or seller.
A video scan is performed during an NFPA Level 2 inspection which are performed for a variety of reasons including change out of an appliance, real estate sale, troubleshooting, or if there has ever been a fire in the flue. The flue must be cleaned first as any normal preseason service and check, and then the video unit is fed through the system. Because of the extra time involved in both the on site work and the report writing afterward costs do run roughly double a standard clean and check but are more than justified by having seen every inch of the flue.
Here is a tip for homebuyers: Have a proper Level 2 inspection performed. The scan of the flue in your potential house could reveal issues even in systems which a regular home inspector did not see. (Cracks and gaps which are often hard to see from the ends of the chimney, holes, old thimbles, PLUMBING VENTS.) Knowing about these issues gives you more bargaining power.
Sometimes problems are easy to spot, but sometimes they're not which is where proper scanning comes in. Bottom line, it's the best way to get the most information about your flue and very well worth the cost.
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Keeping the April Showers Out!
Water infiltration is a big deal for masonry chimneys. Water can enter masonry and erode mortar joints, decay brickwork, and when it freezes it can split crowns and brickwork apart. Water can also enter through chimneys and flashing and rot and decay the wood structure of your home. Keeping water outside where it belongs can be a very difficult task, especially on older New England homes.
Having a proper chimney crown can be a major help. A properly built crown extends beyond the brickwork of the chimney to move rainwater away from the masonry. It overhangs much like the eaves of a roof do on your home. Still, most masonry chimneys have what's known as a wash, which like a crown is a concrete top on a chimney, but unlike a crown it doesn't overhang. Instead, water runs to the edge and then down the brickwork, possibly leading to infiltration into the chimney. Repairing a damaged wash will help to keep water out, but if at all possible pouring proper crown will make a big difference.
Flashings are also very prone to leaks, especially when improperly done. When budgets are tight but repair is needed, a flashing sealer can be an effective and inexpensive solution to keep water out. Flashing sealer is a paint on rubber layer which lays over top of the flashing like a big rain coat. It dries quickly and is pretty effective at keeping out rainwater.
Finally, make sure you have a cap installed. Caps do wonders to keep rainwater out of the flue interior which greatly helps extend the lifespan of your masonry flue. This is especially important on a flue serving an oil appliance.
Enjoy the great weather and watch out for the black flies!
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SUMMARY |
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Are you getting ripped off?
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A very sad reality the chimney industry deals with is the existence of bait-and-switch con artists who are trying to rip you off. They usually show up or call quoting a $40 sweep and end up quoting thousands of dollars after they "find" problems with the customer's chimney. When they "reline" the chimney to fix the problem, a lot of times they only stick a short stub of a liner in the top to make it appear the repair has been performed. In reality, all they've done is take thousands of dollars of the victims money.
Here is a great article on the subject.
http://www.scamraiders.com/profiles/blogs/chimney-cleaning-and-repair
For someone not in the industry, I think the folks at the above link have done pretty well. Just a couple corrections in my opinion:
- I would probably panic if my chimney had 1/4 inch of creosote built up. The standard I'm familiar with is 1/8 inch.
- Their three levels of inspection aren't quite accurate, but close enough I suppose.
- Carbon monoxide is rare, but possible in wood flues, but it is a very real danger in oil flues.
Common sense can be your very best tool to protect yourself from these scams.
- If it sounds too good to be true..... The article is pretty spot on with their pricing info. With fuel, vehicle maintenance, insurance etc $40 doesn't nearly cover expenses.
- Make sure the sweep is CSIA certified. These sweeps are reputable and have had to do a lot of training and passed some very difficult tests. Scam artists don't do this.
- Ask for references.
- Be suspicious if they are from out of state. A lot of these scams are done by companies who have to travel quite a long ways to get to a place they are not known.
If you find yourself in this situation call the police and have them make a report so the company's name is on file.
A lot of people do indeed have issues with their flue which need attention, but the practice of a lot of sweeps is not to give quotes until an inspection and report have been done. This report will have photos and usually a video scan of the flue has been done. Then a quote is issued to the customer. If you are looking at expensive repairs, get multiple estimates with details on what each includes. Then you can weigh cost versus service and parts received and make a decision.
So folks, keep an eye out and if something doesn't feel right call someone. Have a great day! |
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Some households are plagued by a persistently smelly fireplace. The heavy odor of smoke and creosote hangs in the air on hot, humid days and can really drive some people crazy. Here we will look into common causes of this and what you can do to help the situation.
Fireplace odor usually occurs due to a flow reversal in the fireplace flue - rather than air going up the chimney and out air is coming down the chimney, picking up the odor, and moving into the living area of the home. This can occur when other appliances such as draft hoods, dryers, bathroom fans, and such are turned on in unusually tight construction. The house is so tightly built that air is pulled down the chimney and in to replace the air that is being removed.
Another reason for a flow reversal to occur is what's known as the stack effect. In older and/or poorly insulated homes the house structure itself acts as a better chimney than the chimney. Air wants to rise up the staircase and out the upstairs windows or attic rather than going up and out the chimney. Because of this massive movement of air, replacement air is pulled in and down the chimney and into the home. This is very common for an older fireplace on a lower level or basement of a house. You can test this by cracking a window in the same room as the fireplace and seeing if the problem subsides.
Thankfully, there are steps you can take to help eliminate smelly chimneys.
First, have the fireplace cleaned to remove the bulk of the creosote and soot. Reasons for this should be obvious.
Second, have a good quality top sealing damper installed and ditch that conventional damper. A top sealing damper will completely seal the top of the flue and physically block any air movement into the chimney.
Third, and in cases of stack effect reversal, look into having a passive air inlet or outside air intake installed.
There are chimney deodorizers available and an open box of baking soda is sometimes effective.
And if all else fails, just light lots of incense.
Enjoy your day!
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Because they are so useful for a wood burner, and because I enjoy them so, I wanted to make this entry on an intro to the chainsaw - or a beginner's guide to the saw. While I only have average experience using a chainsaw for someone who processes their own firewood, I do have several years experience fixing and selling chainsaws professionally. In the past I have been certified by both Husqvarna and Stihl.
So you want to purchase a saw? Great! There are somethings to look for and chainsaw quality can vary greatly within the industry. The same golden rule applies to saws: You get what you pay for. If you buy a cheap saw, all else being equal, it will perform worse and die sooner than a better saw. Cheap saws have their place, but if you're cutting and preparing more than a cord or so of wood a year you'll want something better than a hundred-dollar-special. The best thing to do (in my opinion) is to visit a local reputable dealer and shop. Remember, for the most part good saws come from dealers. Cheap saws come from box stores, no matter what brand.
Protective gear is also a good idea. Kevlar chaps can save your legs. I have, on more than one occasion "repaired" a non running saw by pulling kevlar fibers out of the sprocket. The customers often didn't even know they hit their legs. If you're felling trees a good helmet with ear and eye protection is important. Dead or hung up branches can fall and injure or kill you. Eye protection keeps sawdust out of your eyes while cutting also.
One hazard a saw operator can face is kickback. What happens is the top quadrant of the bar tip catches on a log, digs in, and flings the saw back at the operator. It doesn't always happen, but it's something you should be aware of and watch out for. Make sure you have a good grip on the saw and good footing while using it, and try to keep the top of the bar from touching other logs while cutting. The best way to avoid it is prevention.
Saws do require maintenance and good quality mix fuel. Fuel should be mixed with the proper amount of 2-stroke oil and fresh fuel should be used. Fuel nowadays contains ethanol, which isn't very good for 2-stroke equipment. Keep the fuel clean and free of moisture and do not store fuel in your equipment no matter for how short of a time - even overnight. Ethanol and water can destroy the saws delicate carburetor and also can result in the saw running on a very lean mixture and burning it's engine up.
Keep your chain nice and sharp too. Sharp chains will make the saw easier to use and can reduce fatigue and injury on the operator. They also will prolong the life of the saw. Sharpening with a file can take some practice, but is well worth it. It's also nice to have a spare.
There's way more to saws than this crude "crash course" can say. Stihl has a great hour long video on the web on a similar theme, owning and using a saw. It's pretty good and informative. Saws are handy to have when a tree falls on your property. They also greatly expand your ability to get free wood from neighbors. I sometimes carry one on the truck during winter storms just in case. So have fun Paul Bunyan, and don't cut your leg off!
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To kick off the addition of Regency to our line of stoves, and their Greenfire pellet stove, I will take you folks through my procedure to clear a jammed pellet stove auger and hopefully you can save yourselves a service call.
Pellet stoves require regular maintenance. Part of this maintenance I recommend to my customers is about once a month letting the stove run out of pellets and vacuuming the hopper and auger area really well with a shop vac. Pellet crumbs settle to the bottom of the hopper and these are usually what jam augers and vacuuming reduces this risk greatly.
So your auger is jammed? No problem. Here is what I do. First, you'll need some basic tools and some minor tinkering skills. Unplug the appliance! Remove the back or side covers as necessary to give yourself plenty of room. You may need to disconnect the venting system. Be careful, soot may come out. Next I loosen the auger set screw between the auger motor and auger and gently pull or pry the auger motor off the auger shaft. A bracket may need to be removed depending on your brand. Now that the auger is out of the way, wedge a screwdriver or wrench in the set screw hole in the auger shaft and use that to pry the whole assembly around. You should be a bit careful here and work slowly, but eventually you will be able to turn the auger the whole way around. Vacuum out the auger area while turning the auger and once it turns freely, you can reassemble the stove. Once reassembled, hook up the venting, plug the stove in, and add only a few handfuls of pellets first. Turn the stove on and make sure everything is working properly. If it is, you're back in business! If not, try again.
As I said, auger jams are common and hopefully the above information will get you back in business sooner and save you a service call! Enjoy the early spring weather!! |
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Furnaces, Moisture, Acid, and Your Flue!
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The furnace flue is the often forgotten part of your chimney and many consumers are surprised when serious problems are found within it. Years of service can take their toll on the flue especially when you consider the extreme conditions the flue typically endures. Here is a brief overview of what your furnace flue must do and the challenges it faces:
Oil Boilers/Furnaces: Oil exhaust has a very high sulfur content, and when combined with moisture forms sulfuric acid which can very quickly damage and destroy most flues. Clay flues will tend to flake apart (called spalling), joints erode, holes form, and serious carbon monoxide problems become much more likely. The moisture itself can come from rainwater entry into an uncapped flue, or the moisture can be a byproduct of combustion in a high efficiency furnace or propane appliance. In the latter case the moisture condenses in the flue before being exhausted outside either due to a cold chimney, infiltration air leaks, or an uninsulated/poorly installed liner. Whatever the source, this moisture/sulfur combination can create havoc in as little as a year. Some furnaces simply MUST have a good quality stainless liner installed to function safely. In one recent case we came across a high efficiency System 2000 oil furnace which was installed without a proper stainless liner (which goes against the installation requirements) and one year later it had destroyed the flue to a point where the furnace would no longer run and posed a serious threat to the occupants of the home. The System 2000 is a GREAT oil system, but must be installed properly. Please consult your local dealer or Energy Kinetics for more information.
Propane Appliances: In addition to rainwater entry as described above, the additional problem propane appliances have is the inherent moisture content of propane itself - propane burning produces a lot of water in the exhaust. This water when vented into a traditional masonry chimney, especially one outside the envelope of the home, will condense and create many similar deterioration issues. Spalling, erosion, etc can occur to a point where the flue can no longer contain the products of combustion. Insulation is sometimes required when relining a propane flue to keep the exhaust gases warmer to avoid condensation within the chimney.
So what should you do to protect yourself?
1. Have your flue checked regularly, as part of your routine maintenance. We, as well as many other certified sweeps, will gladly check the flue condition when we're on site to sweep a wood flue. (BTW, the same service guidelines apply to oil and gas flues: Checked once a year, cleaned as needed.) Often we will want to clean, inspect, and scan the flue if we're on site for the first time to get a good baseline. After that, we'll check it during your yearly service to keep track of it's condition.
2. Install a cap!!! A $70 cap can save you thousands of dollars of repairs down the road, as well as prevent injury to you and your family. If you are the DIY type, you can get a cap of your own and install it. It's not that hard. My only suggestion is make sure the cap is a minimum of 316 stainless steel, otherwise it will just fall apart in the acidic environment of an oil flue.
3. Line your flue if necessary. In addition of a possible bump in efficiency of your appliance, you will have a much safer chimney. Be sure to insulate if necessary.
4. If you're replace your furnace or boiler with a newer unit, remember that often a proper inspection of your chimney is required by code. Simply looking up the flue is not nearly enough.
So there it is folks. As always, feel free to contact us via the web or phone if you have any questions, and please enjoy the nice weather we're finally having!
Additional reading:
Relining Your Oil-Fired Appliance Chimney
The Importance of Flue Lining |
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What to Expect After a Chimney Fire
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Ok, it's the middle of summer so this may not be on your mind now, but it's useful information anyway. Let's say you hear a strange roaring or chugging sound from your chimney, maybe you can even hear some crackling or popping. Smoke may fill the house - you are having a chimney fire. What now? First and most importantly, get everyone out and call 911!!
Once the fire is out, now what happens with your chimney? Here is where we can help you.
We will arrive on site as soon as possible to evaluate and confirm your chimney fire often - often free of charge in our service area! We can help prepare a plan of action to correct the issues then usually including:
- Cleaning the post fire creosote and soot from the flue
- Video scanning to confirm damage
- Removal of the old flue if necessary
- Installation of an insulated stainless liner
- Installation of a proper bottom connection and top termination
- Cleaning up our mess and leaving your home as it was before
Also of note is that most homeowner's insurance policies will cover chimney fire damage. We can even help with the process to make things easier and more efficient for you.
Once the chimney is repaired and the paperwork is done for your insurance company you are back in business!
Stay cool out there folks! |
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